Let me introduce you to another iconic origami design, the Rose Crane (バラツル) by Satoshi Kamiya (神谷哲史). Some of you might have seen his previous version of the Rose Crane, which had the rose much more open – and even pulled apart like sometimes done with the back of a crane. That older design is around since 2015. But Mr. Kamiya published an updated form to his Rose Crane in the book “The Graceful of Origami” by Makoto Yamaguchi from 2017. You can find that diagram on p. 55 – 58 of that book. There are 48 steps to complete this model.
Details to Rose Crane by Satoshi Kamiya
Satoshi Kamiya recommends to use:
20cm 折り紙用紙 / 1枚 / 不切正方一枚折り 20 cm origami paper / 1 piece / without cut square one folding.
This newer version has the rose a bit more closed, almost like a rose bud. In the text accompanying his diagram, it is explained that the torso fold is put into a distorted state. Although the ease of folding is slightly lower, general versatility is getting higher as folds generated by torsional folding are aligned in the center.
I have not seen the diagram and also not folded the previous version of the Rose Crane. But the folding start reminds me very much of the Rose Box by Shin Han Gyo. Well they are all slightly based on the original origami rose by Toshikazu Kawasaki. As it is also mentioned in the text to this diagram:
It is a work incorporating the twist folding structure of masterpiece “rose” of Mr. Toshikazu Kawasaki on the back of the crane.
This model is rated in difficulty 3 out of 5 stars – so it’s definitely not a beginner model. The folding of most part of the rose is not difficult at all. Though sometimes, especially if you don’t read Japanese, there might be some confusion.
It happened to me in step 15 of the model. From the picture it looks as if you need to fold to the center, but you realize that the resulting fold does not connect two lines like seen in the diagram. Whereas when you read the text:
Fold fold line with a line connecting
It becomes clear that you should base your fold somewhere else (○), and not the center.
Another difficulty I encountered were steps 24 – 28. Once you figure out what the steps mean, they are not difficult at all. I typed in the Japanese text and translated it, in case you also have problems with these steps:
Fold fold using the folding line attached
Tightly fold back and then return
Try to match this border
Fold like picking with folds of mountain folds attached
Fold like 24, pinch using the fold line
Tightly fold back and then return
Overall, as I said before, the folding is not the really tricky part (in my opinion). The difficult part is the folding and shaping of the crane, once the rose is formed on the top. The reason for it is, that you suddenly have a few layers that all need to be reversed and folded upright. Here, the size and characteristics of the paper you chose will make or break your finished result. Don’t be alarmed, if your finished crane’s neck and tail twist to a direction and doesn’t sit straight. As Mr. Kamiya explained in the text to the model, the torso fold is in a distorted state.
For once, test fold the whole model maybe with plain white copy paper, so you get a feel for the model. You will see how difficult it is to fold the neck and tail. But then it is even more difficult to reverse this fold upwards and finish it.
Here is the paradox of it: thicker paper – you will more or less be able to fold in the neck and tail. It is not easy, as you cannot put the model down on the table (as you need to take care not to damage the already folded rose in the middle). BUT then you need to reverse with this thicker paper the neck and tail upwards. You will know what I mean when you try it yourself. If you use thinner paper, the folding is almost impossible, yet the reversing upwards is easier.
I folded this model 7 times in two days. Here is my conclusion regarding the paper choice:
Copy paper (21 cm): creases hold well, folding is for the most time easy. Crane shaping very difficult as the paper is thick – which leaves an unsatisfied result. The rose in the center pops up rather stiff and beautiful.
Kami (15 cm & 25 cm): the folding is as expected, good. Regarding folding and shaping of the crane, bigger is easier, as you can hold and fold the crane in the air with more ease. It reasonably has a good result when reversing the neck and tail upwards. The resulting rose is quite nice. If your Kami is really crisp like this one, then the rose is very bud like and pretty.
Glassine (20 cm): yes, I know, I must be crazy to attempt to fold this model with Glassine paper. But I wanted to know how it feels (how easy it is compared to all the other papers) when reversing the neck and tail upwards. The one step before (fold the edges to the center) is so frustrating, as the paper is so thin and not forgiving. It is the hardest with this paper. Yet the reversing is easier. Overall, I cannot recommend this paper. The general folding is also not very pleasant, as you might know, if you have experience with Glassine.
Tant (15 cm): you might have guessed, save the best for last. Tant is a great choice for this model. The folding itself is so pleasant and the steps necessary for the crane are reasonably for its thickness. I wish I had 20 cm Tant available when folding this model, but it turned out quite satisfactory with 15 cm as well. The rose itself is the prettiest with Tant paper as it holds its shape so well. By looking at the pictures, you wouldn’t realize, that the crane is actually pretty small – for how difficult it was to get it into it’s final shape. I included a reference shot with my hand, so you can see it’s size.